Most people book the W Trek through an operator: a fixed departure, a shared bus, a guide setting the pace at the front of a line of a dozen strangers. It's a reasonable way to see Torres del Paine. It also means someone else decides when you eat lunch and how long you get at the Base of the Towers.
This is the version for hiking it yourself — five days, refugio to refugio, booked directly with the two companies that manage the trail's accommodation, with nothing more than a catamaran ticket and a reservation confirmation standing between you and the trailhead. Every night is pre-booked (wild camping isn't allowed anywhere in the park), but once you're on the trail each day, the pace is entirely yours.
The trail is well-marked enough that a paper map and common sense get you through it — the real planning happens months earlier, at a laptop, booking refugio beds before they sell out.
01The three things worth building the trip around
Everything below can be rearranged, skipped, or doubled up. These three can't — they're the reason this itinerary exists.
02The itinerary, day by day
This is the classic west-to-east route, starting with the catamaran across Lago Pehoé. It can be walked in the opposite direction just as easily.
03What it actually costs
Per person, excluding international flights. Figures are approximate and based on self-guided refugio bookings for the 2025–26 season — always confirm current pricing before you book.
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Best time to go
The trekking season runs October through April. November and March offer the best balance of open refugios, thinner crowds, and calmer winds than the December–February peak.
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Book early
Refugio and campsite reservations open around April or May for the following season and sell out for peak dates. Lock in your beds before you book flights, not after.
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Pack for
Wind strong enough to knock you sideways, four seasons of weather in one afternoon, cash for the catamaran and refugio extras, and a daypack light enough for the Chileno climb.
